Fiona is an inspirational designer of fabric patterns and bold printed fabrics. She designs everyday clothing and accessories that she wears herself, rarely buying anything from shops. She believes that making your own clothes is a way of discovering yourself and learning new skills along the way.
"Trouble is, when you love what you do, you just keep going, stopping is not on the cards…. well not just quite yet!"
How did your creative journey begin?
Sewing has been part of my life since childhood, making smocks for my dolls and sewing patches on dungarees in the 1970s. My grandmother was a tailoress and I think maybe I inherited some of her genes. Enrolling on a degree in textile design for fashion at Brighton in the early eighties, with a year spent working in industry, I left four years later with big ambitions and determination. My college final year knitwear collection was snapped up by swanky American department stores, and after a few years doing my own thing, I was offered a design job in Paris where I stayed for 6 years.
Why did your focus change from knitwear to sewing?
Returning to the UK in the early nineties and ready for a change, I switched from yarn to fabric and channelled my designs into writing projects for books and magazines. Following the financial crash of 2008, up-cycling was a buzzword, people were returning to make do and mend values, and dressmaking suddenly became more popular. I started teaching workshops at Clothkits with my ‘Make Your Mother Proud’ one day workshops, alongside writing numerous projects for sewing magazines such as Simply Sewing and I a book called ‘Sweet Nothings’ by Lark publishing inc. I also launched a range of toy craft kits for children and held sewing workshops and clubs from my garden studio.
How did you start designing commercial patterns?
In 2017, a baker boy style hat pattern which I’d designed for a magazine was picked up by a new sewing TV channel called Sewing Quarter, who asked me to demonstrate it live on air in their Birmingham studio. Encouraged by this experience, I developed more clothing and accessory patterns under the name Sewgirl. Since then, I’ve been demonstrating regularly live on Sewing Street TV and with now over 30 patterns in the Sewgirl range, it’s been an exciting adventure which I’ve enjoyed immensely.
What is the process of designing a new pattern?
Designing a new pattern always starts with lots of sketches. I will self-draft one into a paper pattern and make up an initial test garment for myself. If I get an intuitive feeling and am loving the feel of wearing it, I think …yup! this is a good one! I ask myself lots of questions like would I wear this every day? Does it feel comfortable and fit well? Is it a valuable addition to my wardrobe and importantly, enjoyable to make? All these elements, for me are the signs of a great pattern. I usually make a first sample in a plain fabric, like denim, with topstitching, enabling me to get a better feel about size, scale and detail. After many re-sews and tweaks, the pattern is digitised and sized by a professional and more samples are then sewn. Changes can take place right until last minute until I finally feel happy. Then it’s on to the next stage of laboriously writing the instructions, illustrations and photography. My son is a graphic designer which is very handy, we work on the look of the booklet and packaging together which I really enjoy. Creating a new pattern is a labour of love which can sometimes take up to six months from start to finish. It’s almost like having a baby!
Where do you get your inspiration from?
It’s hard to say what inspires me with my work. I’ve always loved colour and bold fabric patterns, and although I appreciate interesting detailing in clothing, I like creating simple patterns that allow the fabric to be the centre stage. I visit art exhibitions and enjoy travel and films - it’s good to soak up ideas from wherever. Often the best ideas just pop up in my head and lurk in the shadows until I realise them!
Describe a typical workday?
A typical workday scenario might start with a walk on the seafront, which I find always inspirational, then either sewing in my purpose-built garden studio or on the computer writing patterns and processing online orders. I love working from home alongside my husband Marko who works with me on Sewgirl. We design fabrics together under the name ‘Kindred Print’ inspired by his abstract art (marko.org.uk). He is also invaluable at organising shows, and input with future design ideas. He takes care of all the laborious stuff like stock levels and ordering which allows me more time to sew and create. There’s always lots to do and I am so very glad I share it with my ‘right hand man’.
Where can we see SewGirl in person?
Sewgirl will be showing Thread Farnham (June) and Knit & Stitch London (October).
What do you have planned for the future?
Adding more film demos to my YouTube channel @sewgirl2511. I have ideas to possibly launch a small children’s range or maybe even publish a book, however I am now officially a pensioner …eeek! so maybe I should be thinking of slowing down. Trouble is, when you love what you do, you just keep going, stopping is not on the cards…. well not just quite yet!
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