Denim and chambray can look similar, particularly in classic indigo shades, but they are woven differently. Denim usually has a twill weave, recognisable by its subtle diagonal lines, and tends to have more body and durability. Chambray has a plain weave and is generally lighter, softer and more fluid. Denim is a natural choice for jeans, trousers, jackets and bags, while chambray is lovely for shirts, blouses, dresses and lighter garments.

It depends on the weight and whether the denim contains stretch. Lighter denims can work beautifully for dresses, skirts, shirts and relaxed trousers, while medium and heavier weights provide more structure for jeans, workwear, jackets, dungarees and bags. Always compare the fabric weight, composition and stretch with the recommendations on your sewing pattern before choosing.

The ounce measurement describes the weight of the fabric per square yard. Broadly, an 8oz denim will be lighter and more flexible than a 12oz denim, while heavier denim generally provides more structure. However, fibre content, weave and finishing can also affect how denim feels and drapes, so use the weight as a useful guide rather than the only factor when choosing.

Chambray is a lovely choice when you want the casual look of denim without as much weight or structure. Its lighter, softer handle works particularly well for shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts and relaxed summer clothing. It can also be useful for children’s clothing and other projects where a heavier denim might feel too substantial

Follow the recommendations on your sewing pattern. Close-fitting jeans may be specifically designed for denim with a particular percentage of stretch, while traditional or relaxed jeans are often drafted for non-stretch fabric. They aren’t necessarily interchangeable, as using the wrong amount of stretch can significantly change the fit. Check both the fibre composition and stated stretch before ordering.

Many denims become softer and more comfortable as they are washed and worn, particularly rigid cotton denim. How much the fabric changes depends on its fibre content, weight, weave and finish. If you want to know how a particular denim is likely to behave, check the individual product description and care instructions rather than judging by weight alone.

Many domestic sewing machines can handle lightweight and medium-weight denim. Use a suitable denim needle, test your stitching on an offcut and sew slowly where several layers meet. Thick seams, belt loops, pocket corners and waistbands can create considerable bulk, so always work within the capabilities of your particular machine.

Not necessarily. A good-quality general-purpose sewing thread is suitable for constructing many denim garments. If you want the traditional contrast stitching seen on jeans and workwear, a heavier topstitching thread can be used for visible details, provided it is suitable for your machine. Test your needle, thread, stitch length and tension on a folded fabric offcut before starting the finished garment.

If the finished garment will be washed, pre-washing is generally a sensible precaution. Cotton denim and chambray can shrink, and darker indigo fabrics may release excess dye during their first washes. Follow the care instructions for the individual fabric and wash dark colours separately at first. Once dry, press the fabric before cutting your pattern pieces.

It can. Deep indigo and other strongly coloured denims may release or transfer some dye, particularly when new. Take care around pale clothing, upholstery and other light-coloured fabrics, and wash the denim separately initially according to its care instructions. The amount of colour transfer varies between fabrics and finishes.