Corduroy is a woven fabric with distinctive raised ridges, known as wales, running along its surface. Traditionally made from cotton, it has a soft pile that gives it warmth, texture and a lovely depth of colour. Corduroy comes in different weights and wale sizes, from very fine needlecord to bold, chunky cord, making it wonderfully versatile for dressmaking.

The main difference is the size and number of the ridges, or wales. Fine needlecord has lots of narrow, closely spaced wales, giving it a softer, more delicate appearance. Jumbo corduroy has fewer, much wider wales for a chunkier, more pronounced texture. As a general rule, a higher wale number means finer ridges, while a lower number means wider ridges. Weight and construction matter too, so always check the individual fabric details when choosing for a project.

Corduroy is brilliant for autumn and winter dressmaking, with different weights suited to different projects. Fine needlecord works beautifully for dresses, shirts, pinafores and children’s clothing, while medium and heavier cords are excellent for trousers, skirts, jackets and dungarees. More substantial corduroys can also be useful for bags and other structured sewing projects.

Look for enough body to hold the shape of the garment without creating too much bulk at pockets, waistbands and seams. Fine needlecord creates a softer, lighter garment, while medium and wider-wale cords can give trousers and dungarees a more structured feel. Your trouser sewing pattern should give recommended fabric types and weights, so use these alongside the individual fabric description when choosing.

Absolutely. Printed needlecord is particularly lovely for children’s dresses, skirts, dungarees and other everyday garments because it combines a soft texture with enough body to hold its shape. Our Liberty Fabrics Rossmore Corduroys are a beautiful example. Simple children’s sewing patterns can work especially well with a detailed print, allowing the fabric to be the focus.

Corduroy has a directional pile, or nap. The raised fibres catch the light differently depending on which way they face, which can make the same fabric appear lighter or darker when viewed from opposite directions. Before cutting, look at the fabric both ways and decide which direction you prefer, then keep all your pattern pieces facing the same way for a consistent finish.

You may do. Because corduroy has a nap, pattern pieces should generally be cut in the same direction rather than turned around to fit more economically onto the fabric. This one-way cutting layout can require more fabric than a standard layout. Check whether your sewing pattern gives a separate fabric allowance for fabrics with nap, and take the fabric width into account before ordering.

Most woven corduroys are relatively straightforward to sew, making them accessible to confident beginners as well as experienced dressmakers. The main things to consider are the directional nap and the extra bulk that can build up at seams, pockets and waistbands. Fine needlecord is generally easier to handle than a very thick jumbo cord, particularly for a first corduroy project.

For washable cotton corduroy, pre-washing is generally a good idea because the fabric may shrink. Wash and dry it according to the care instructions for the individual fabric and in a similar way to how you intend to care for the finished garment. Avoid leaving the fabric crushed while damp, and smooth the pile before drying.

Press corduroy gently from the wrong side wherever possible and avoid applying heavy pressure directly to the pile. Resting the right side on a thick towel or another piece of corduroy can help protect the ridges while you work. Lift and lower the iron rather than sliding it across the fabric, and always test the temperature and steam on an offcut first.