Opening a sewing pattern for the first time can feel a little daunting. There are lines everywhere, unfamiliar symbols, lots of numbers and a set of instructions that can seem to have their own language.
The good news is that sewing patterns are much easier to understand once you know what you’re looking at. Most use the same basic information and symbols, so learning how to read one pattern will make the next one considerably easier.
“A sewing pattern is much less mysterious once you know what all those lines and symbols are trying to tell you.”
Start with the pattern envelope
Before you even open your pattern, there is plenty of useful information to be found on the envelope.
The front usually shows the garment you’ll be making, either as photographs, illustrations or technical drawings. If the pattern includes several different versions or views, you’ll be able to see the options available - perhaps different sleeve lengths, necklines or garment lengths.
Turn the envelope over and you’ll usually find the information you need to plan your project, including the size range, suggested fabrics, fabric requirements and any additional notions required.
Choosing your size
One of the most important things to know is that your sewing pattern size may not be the same as the ready-to-wear size you usually buy.
Always take your current body measurements and compare them with the pattern’s size chart rather than automatically choosing your usual dress size.
Depending on the garment, you’ll normally need some or all of the following:
- Bust - around the fullest part of your bust
- Waist - around your natural waistline
- Hip - around the fullest part of your hips
If your measurements fall between sizes, don’t worry. One of the great advantages of dressmaking is that you can grade between sizes to create a better fit.
Check the finished garment measurements
Body measurements tell you which size the pattern has been designed for, while finished garment measurements tell you how big the actual garment will be once it has been made.
The difference between your body measurement and the finished garment measurement is known as ease.
Some ease is needed simply so you can move comfortably, while additional ease may be an intentional part of the design. A loose, oversized shirt, for example, will have considerably more ease than a fitted bodice.
Checking the finished measurements can therefore give you a much better idea of how the garment is intended to fit - and help you choose the size that gives you the look you want.
Fabric requirements and notions
Once you’ve chosen your size, check how much fabric you’ll need.
Patterns usually give different amounts depending on the size you are making and the width of your fabric. There may also be different requirements for each version of the garment.
Pay attention to notes about fabrics with a nap, one-way design, checks or stripes, as these can require additional fabric for pattern matching or to make sure all the pieces face in the same direction.
You’ll also find a list of notions - the extra items needed to complete the garment, such as thread, buttons, elastic, interfacing or a zip.
Understanding the pattern pieces
Now for the pattern itself.
Each pattern piece should be clearly labelled with its name and number, such as Front Bodice, Back Bodice or Sleeve. The instructions will tell you which pieces are needed for the version you’re making.
On a multi-size pattern, you’ll see several cutting lines running around each piece. Each size may use a different combination of solid, dotted and dashed lines.
Check the pattern key carefully and follow your chosen line around the entire piece before cutting - particularly where several size lines cross or sit very close together.
What does the grainline mean?
The long straight line with arrows printed on a pattern piece is the grainline, and it is one of the most important markings on your pattern.
Woven fabric has threads running lengthways and across its width. The grainline on your pattern should normally sit parallel to the fabric’s selvedge - the finished edge running along either side of the fabric.
Positioning your pieces correctly on the grain helps the finished garment hang and behave as the designer intended.
A simple way to check is to measure from each end of the printed grainline to the selvedge. When both measurements are the same, your pattern piece is sitting parallel to it.
What does ‘place on fold’ mean?
Some pattern pieces are designed to create one symmetrical piece rather than two separate halves.
If a pattern edge is marked ‘place on fold’, position that edge directly against the folded edge of your fabric.
Do not cut along the fold. When you open the fabric out, you’ll have one complete symmetrical piece.
Notches, darts, dots and other markings
All those little shapes and lines printed across your pattern have a job to do.
Notches are matching points that help you line different pattern pieces up correctly when sewing. You may see single, double or occasionally triple notches.
Darts help turn flat fabric into a three-dimensional shape, often around the bust, waist or hips. On your pattern they are usually shown as two lines tapering towards a point.
Dots, circles, squares and other markings may indicate where to:
- start or stop stitching
- position a pocket
- attach a button
- make a buttonhole
- add gathering
- match sections together
Check the pattern’s symbol key and transfer any important markings to your fabric before removing the paper pattern.
Understanding the cutting layout
Your instructions will usually include diagrams showing how to arrange the pattern pieces on your fabric.
These cutting layouts help you fit the pieces onto the recommended amount of fabric while keeping everything on the correct grain.
Make sure you are looking at the layout for your fabric width, garment size and chosen version.
Also check whether the fabric should be folded and whether any pattern pieces need to be cut just once rather than as a pair.
What does ‘right sides together’ mean?
You’ll see right sides together, often shortened to RST, throughout sewing instructions.
The right side is the side of the fabric that will be visible on the finished garment. When you’re told to put two pieces right sides together, place those visible faces against each other before stitching.
Wrong sides together (WST) means exactly the opposite.
Check the seam allowance
The seam allowance is the distance between the raw edge of your fabric and your line of stitching.
Patterns don’t all use the same seam allowance, so always check before you begin. It might be 1cm, 1.5cm or something different, and sometimes different areas of the same garment use different seam allowances.
Most modern sewing patterns include seam allowance within the pattern pieces, but never assume - check the instructions first.
Read the instructions before you start
It’s tempting to get the scissors out immediately, but spending a little time reading through the instructions first can save plenty of head-scratching later.
You don’t need to understand every step yet. Familiarise yourself with the order of construction, check that you have all your notions, identify any pieces that need interfacing and make sure you understand the cutting layout.
And remember: sewing instructions are designed to be followed one step at a time. Something that looks completely baffling when you first read it often becomes obvious once you reach that stage of the project.
Don’t be intimidated by your pattern
Like sewing itself, reading a sewing pattern gets easier with practice. The first one may involve plenty of checking and re-reading, but before long grainlines, notches, darts and cutting layouts will all start to feel familiar.
Take your time, measure carefully and enjoy the process. Turning a flat piece of fabric and a sheet of paper into something you can actually wear is a rather wonderful thing.
Ready to start sewing?
Explore our collection of sewing patterns, fabrics and dressmaking supplies and find everything you need for your next project.